Fins are the one piece of gear that changes how far each kick takes you. The carbon versus fiberglass debate isn’t about status. It’s about thrust per joule, and the number that matters is stiffness.

What the materials actually do

Carbon fiber blades are stiffer at the same weight and return energy faster, so each kick converts more leg effort into forward motion. Fiberglass is softer and more forgiving, easier on untrained legs, cheaper to replace. Plastic, the 80 to 200 dollar entry tier from Cressi, Mares and Beuchat, is fine for a first course but flexes out before you do.

Price tiers, real ones

• Plastic or composite: 80 to 200 dollars. Rent-first territory, good for try-dives.
• Fiberglass: 200 to 400 dollars. The sweet spot for most hobby divers doing 10 to 25m.
• Carbon, think Leaderfin, Alchemy, Carbonio: 400 to 800 plus. Worth it only once you’re diving two or three times a week.

The trap is buying carbon at month two and blaming the fins when your legs tire at 18m. Match the blade to your training volume, not your ambition. When you’re ready to compare certified-retailer stock, the link below costs you nothing extra.

Freediving wetsuit buying guide (2026)

By Jonas Reef · AIDA 3-star · Updated July 2026 · 6 min read

When I bought my first freediving wetsuit, I made the classic beginner mistake: I grabbed a scuba suit two sizes too big because it felt comfortable in the shop. In the water it flushed with every kick. I burned through warmth in 20 minutes and called the dive early. A freediving suit is not a scuba suit with a different label — the design logic is opposite, and getting it wrong costs you both money and bottom time.

Open-cell vs closed-cell: the one decision that matters most

Freediving suits use open-cell neoprene (the inner face is unflocked, like raw rubber). It seals to your skin and traps a micro-layer of water your body heats — that’s why it’s dramatically warmer than a scuba suit of the same thickness. The trade-off: it’s fragile and you need a mix of hair conditioner and water to slide it on. Skip the lubricant and you’ll tear the chest panel on your first try.

Closed-cell suits (scuba-style, fabric-lined inside) are easier to put on but flush constantly. Don’t use a scuba suit for freediving if you plan to stay in longer than 30 minutes. You’ll be cold and miserable.

Premium open-cell uses Yamamoto neoprene from Japan — lighter, warmer, more flexible. You pay for it, but for a suit you’ll wear hundreds of times, the flexion difference is real.

Thickness: match it to your water, not your ego

A common beginner question: “Can’t I just get the thickest one for warmth?” No. Thicker neoprene is stiffer and harder to equalize in — it fights your ribs. Pick the thinnest suit your local water allows. In most beginner spots (20–24°C), a 3–5 mm open-cell two-piece is the sweet spot.

Two-piece vs one-piece

Almost every serious freediver runs a two-piece: a hooded jacket (long sleeves, no legs) plus high-waist pants. Reasons: you can bail mid-session by stripping the jacket, the overlap at the waist stops flush, and it’s easier to repair one half. One-pieces exist but are rare in freediving.

Real 2026 price tiers (what you actually pay)

• Entry ($100–180): Cressi, Salvimar, Mares entry lines. Decent open-cell, standard neoprene. Fine to learn in.
• Mid ($200–350): Omer, Pathos, Aqualung mid lines, some Elios stock sizes. Better flexion, often Yamamoto blends.
• Premium ($400+): Custom Elios, Yamamoto #45 neoprene, made-to-measure. If you’re training year-round, the fit payoff is worth it.

Avoid no-name $40 “freediving suits” on marketplaces — they’re usually closed-cell scuba suits with a freediving photo. Check the product spec for “open cell” explicitly.

Where to buy (and how we make money)

We’re not a shop. When we link a specific suit, it goes to a retailer we’ve actually ordered from (LeisurePro, Diveinn and similar, via our Awin affiliate relationship) or to Amazon for the model you can’t get locally. If you buy through those links, we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you — that’s literally how this site stays free to read. We only link gear we’d train in ourselves.

The move

If you’re just starting: get a 3–5 mm open-cell two-piece in true-to-size fit, from an entry or mid line ($120–280). Save the custom Yamamoto suit until you know you’ll still be diving in a year. Then read our fins guide — fins are where beginners overspend most.

About Jonas Reef

AIDA 3-star freediver. I write the gear sections from suits I’ve personally trained in; specs and prices are verified against retailer listings at time of writing. Always confirm current sizing with the maker before ordering.

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Freediving mask & snorkel: how to choose

By Jonas Reef · AIDA 3-star · Updated July 2026 · 6 min read

Your mask is the piece of gear you touch every single dive, and it’s the one beginners cheap out on. I did too — my first “freediving mask” was a $12 snorkeling mask from a beach stall. It flooded on descent because the skirt was too stiff to seal, and equalizing felt like crushing my eyes. A proper low-volume mask isn’t a luxury; it’s the difference between a comfortable dive and a headache.

Why “low volume” is the whole point

Mask volume = the air space between your face and the glass. Every time you descend, that air compresses, and you have to equalize the mask by blowing air from your nose into it — same pressure physics as your ears. A high-volume scuba mask needs a big nose-pinch to re-pressurize; a low-volume freediving mask needs barely a puff. Less effort, less CO2 spike, more dives per session.

Rule of thumb: if the mask looks like it belongs on a scuba diver doing a wreck penetration, it’s too bulky. Freediving masks are small, close to the face, low-profile.

What to actually look for

• Tempered glass, never plastic. Plastic scratches in a week and distorts. Tempered (or better, “crystal”/anti-fog coated) glass is non-negotiable.
• Silicone skirt, not PVC. Silicone seals softly to skin and lasts years. PVC goes hard and leaks.
• Easy nose-pinch. You need to pinch your nostrils through the mask skirt to equalize. Try it in the shop — if you can’t grip, skip it.
• Low internal volume. Hold it up; the smaller the airspace, the better.

The 10-second fit test (don’t skip this)

Press the mask to your face without the strap. Inhale gently through your nose. A good mask will suction and stay put for a second or two when you let go. If it drops immediately, the skirt shape doesn’t match your face — try another brand. Face shape varies; the fit test beats any review.

Snorkel: keep it stupid simple

For freediving you want a basic J-shape or L-shape snorkel with a comfortable silicone mouthpiece. That’s it. Ignore:

• Valves everywhere. Purge valves and splash guards are scuba cruft; they add drag and failure points. A plain tube is quieter and lighter.
• Fancy hinges. Pointless for our use.

The snorkel’s only job: let you breathe at the surface between dives without lifting your face. Spend $15–30, not $60.

Real 2026 price ranges

Brands beginners do well with: Cressi, Omer, Sporasub, Mares, Scubapro (their freediver lines). I’ve trained in a Cressi and an Omer low-vol — both under $80 and still going.

Where to buy

As with our wetsuit guide, we link gear to retailers we’ve ordered from via Awin (LeisurePro, Diveinn and similar) or Amazon for hard-to-find models. If you buy through those links we may earn a commission at no extra cost — it’s how the site stays free, and we only link what we’d dive in.

The move

Start with a low-volume tempered-glass mask that passes the fit test ($40–80) and a plain silicone snorkel ($15–25). That’s ~$60–100 of gear that’ll serve you for years. Then sort your fins — and read the beginner roadmap before you spend another cent.

About Jonas Reef

AIDA 3-star freediver. Mask/snorkel picks come from models I’ve equalized in; prices checked against retailer listings at time of writing.

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